Over the last ten years, Bangkok, along with all of Thailand, has become a second home for me. It’s amazing to see the view when flying or driving into the city – it gives me that feeling of coming back to something both familiar and special.
Although I was born and raised in Canada on a small farm in northern BC, my mother is from Bangkok, Thailand (and my father was from the Ukraine). As a child, I only went to Thailand when I was about 1.5 years old, and then didn’t again until I was in university at the age of 19 – staying with my Thai family in the suburbs of the city with my mom and really getting to experience real life in a very modest living environment. Throughout my 20s, I managed to make it over a few times for longer trips around the country with various ex boyfriends or my family.
Then, from 2010, when I began traveling and working with more location independence as a result of starting my virtual digital agency, Umami Marketing, I was able to visit more often, spending at least a month minimum, and sometimes multiples times there every year. As a result, I’ve probably flown into Bangkok itself 50+ times at this point, making it my base jumping off point for many of my travels not just through Thailand but all of Southeast Asia. I’ve gotten to know this massive city inside and out, even though each time I go, I always find something new and exciting to learn about it. It’s a crazy, dirty, but also fun and tasty city of over 10 million people, and can be difficult to navigate if you’re new to it (especially new to Asia with the overall culture shock), but I’ve found so much beauty in the chaos and it is definitely one of my favourite cities in the world.
I’ve never taken the time to write down any specifics, as it’s really a whole new world every time I head back and there is truly SO much to see that it can be overwhelming, but many people ask about where to go, and I’d love to share at least some parts of it to help ease people in, whether they’ve been before or it’s their first time. What I love is that during each stay, connecting with friends and family there, and even having visitors from outside of the country join me, I always learn about somewhere new.
Over the years, I’ve managed to stay in a variety of neighbourhoods, and explore many different areas. There is amazing food, from the specialty street food stalls, to the markets, to regular middle of the road restaurants, to the high end World’s 50 Best. It is really a dizzying city of nightlife, incredible food, stunning sights, and insane options for shopping, which can satisfy everyone from a backpacker on a budget to the most discerning luxury traveler.
So here we have some of the places I would recommend to meet a variety of tastes and budgets – if you want to pull up the travel map on Google directly, you can also see it all right here!
Food & Drink
| After You Dessert Cafe |  Have you had your honey toast yet? If you’re looking to share a monster dessert, or just have one and skip dinner, After You has taken Bangkok by storm. This was the original location where I tried this treat, and now there are several more restaurants dotting the city. Pick your ice cream and choose whatever your sweet tooth is feeling on any given day. |
| Artis Coffee | Another decent cafe, this one is one of the better ones in the Asoke neighbourhood. If I find myself in this area, I’ll often stop by in the mornings for my caffeine fix. There is great outdoor seating, although it tends to be too hot out there in the humid Bangkok summers, so the small air conditioned shop also provides a lively option. |
| Ayutthaya Boat Noodle | A streetside vendor known for their boat noodle soup (made with congealed pork blood). This is one of my favourites types of Thai soups, and this place usually sells out before lunchtime even starts, so head out in the mornings! It’s one of the few great and cheap local vendors located in Thonglor. |
| Baan Klang Nam 2 | I’ve returned to this delicious seafood restaurant SO many times over the years. One of my girlfriends from Bangkok originally introduced me to it, and I’ve loved it and recommended it ever since. Right along the Chao Praya River, I enjoy going there for a long lunch to avoid the busier evening crowds, and sitting on the patio if it’s not too hot outside. They have fantastic fresh river prawns, and amazing deep fried fish and yellow curry crab, among many other options. Unlike other local restaurants, the size of the dishes are a bit larger, and thus priced accordingly. Also great service and very friendly staff. Although I’ve never been to the original location, further down the river, I keep thinking that one day I’ll have to try it – so let me know if you do first!
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| Baan Ice |  I’ve been to a few locations of this restaurant throughout Bangkok, but this is my favourite. Unfortunately, it’s difficult to get to as it’s not on the Metro or BTS lines, and is a bit outside the city unless you have a driver or take a taxi. I’m not sure if this is the original location, but the food tastes the best here. They serve Khao Soi, a traditional southern healthy and colourful rice dish that’s a must have, plus their own in-house coconut ice cream. If you’re heading out of town to see the sites, you could always try to incorporate a stop by this place on your way. |
| Ceresia Coffee Roasters | This is hands down my favourite little cafe in Bangkok. I usually stay in the Asoke or Phrom Pong areas the last few years, and it’s nice and close by. The pricing is  similar to North American standards, but they roast their own beans and make fantastic drinks. A quiet cafe down a side street in an otherwise very busy neighbourhood. |
| Cielo Sky Bar |  Every time I head to Bangkok, I check out at least one new rooftop bar. There are many in the city, with great views and a solid option for sunset (as long as it’s not too hazy from pollution). This is a fun option to stop by before or after checking out the nearby W District for dinner. Solid cocktails. |
| Escape Bangkok | A rooftop bar and also full restaurant, with a DJ spinning in one corners most evenings, Escape is a great city escape, located right within EmQuartier Mall at Phrom Pong. Great cocktails. Keep in mind that this location isn’t towering above the city like many other rooftops, but is on the 5th floor, so the views aren’t as expansive as most others.
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| the COMMONS | A great spot to see and be seen, this higher end open air marketplace has plenty of food and drink options in Thonglor. Try everything from Mexican to BBQ to Thai cuisine, and enjoy draft beers, cocktails or matcha. This is great for a date or a group looking to try a variety of options all in one place. You’ll just need to pick a table and then wander around to find what you’re looking for, and each vendor will provide you with a number for the table and bring out what you’ve ordered. |
Gaggan | There is SO much I could say about this World’s Top 50 Best restaurant. Thanks to my friend @mijunepak, I was able to get a seat at the Chef’s Table, and really enjoy the choreographed meal. This restaurant and chef Gaggan Anand, are known for 25 course tasting menus, where emojis alone mark each course, of which most are eaten by hand, set to a backdrop of great rock music. A fusion of Thai and Indian cuisine, this is one of my favourite meals of all time, and is very limited as Gaggan will be closing up the restaurant by 2020 to work on new options. So try to get a reservation while you still can!
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| Have a Zeed by Steak Lao | If you’re looking for a northeastern Isaan-style restaurant within the comfort of the mall, Have A Zeed is a decent option in Terminal 21 at the Asoke BTS station.
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| Hyde & Seek |  After hearing about Hyde & Seek plenty of times as a new hot spot in town, I went with a close girlfriend visiting from Japan to enjoy some snacks and a couple of cocktails. It’s been a little while since I’ve returned, but the outdoor patio seating and swings are comfy and fun and the atmosphere is lively. |
| The Iron Fairies | An eclectic spot in Thonglor, The Iron Fairies has a cool vibe and decor. Dark and very interesting, there is live music some nights (when we were there), and an intriguing interior style, including hundreds of glass bottles lining the walls, filled with a mixture of sparkles and other objects, and a few hidden rooms and staircases to confuse. Fun to check out for a cocktail or two, and it appeared to be a solid date spot while we were there. |
| Octave Rooftop Bar & Restaurant | If you’re looking for a rooftop bar for some amazing drinks at happy hour, to enjoy views at sunset in Thonglor, Octave is a great spot. (@boholisawesome)
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| Ramen Tei | After passing this ramen restaurant by foot on my way to Ceresia Coffee Roasters, I decided to give it a shot. They serve delicious options and is my go to when craving ramen in the area.
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| Roots at Sathon | A great cafe with solid coffee options and a spacious seating area – so far my favourite in the Sathorn neighbourhood, and easily accessible from Surasak BTS Station. Also has a few fresh juice options (the pomelo was my drink of choice). |
| Route66 Club | Looking to get your dance on to some electronic music in the wee hours of the morning? Head to the RCA District and this club, and you can easily hop from one spot to the next until you’re done for the night. |
| Rung Reung Pork Noodle |  Looking for pork noodles? Stop at this very famous local spot! Very fast and efficient, friendly service, you can choose exactly what type of pork noodle soup or dry noodle options you’d like, all for an extremely low price. Try to avoid prime lunch hour, as you’ll have to line up, although it moves quickly. As it’s only open from the morning until around 6 pm, you can only really hit up this spot for lunch. |
| Seenspace Thonglor | Mainly a later into the evening drinking spot, this has an open air market type concept, but for lounges and restaurants. After stopping by a few times, we spent one New Year’s Eve celebrating here based on a last minute decision to not go to one of the rooftop bars in the city. It was more low key (and less windy), and a lot of fun. |
| Sekaino No Yamachan | This place is known for it’s tower of chicken wings. While I haven’t been myself, it was recommended by a good friend who I’ve traveled with in many places around the world @boholisawesome.
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| Sew-Lung | A very local spot with a great pork wonton soup. Thanks again for the recommendation @boholisawesome!
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| ส้มตำนัว (Som Tam Nua) | A great quick spot for Som Tam (papaya salad), and all of the dishes that go with it, including grilled chicken. Usually quite busy and filled with locals, you’ll just have to walk through the square a bit to find this spot. Serving sizes are quite small. |
| Sumi Tei Yakiniku | If you’ve got a craving for Yakiniku, this restaurant is a great spot. Quality meats to BBQ at your table, including the option to order A5 Wagyu beef. A higher price point, this is a delicious spot that I’ve heard is the best in Bangkok for this style of Japanese meal. |
| RCA | Looking to get your dance on to some electronic music in the wee hours of the morning? Head to the RCA District and this club, and you can easily hop from one spot to the next until you’re done for the night. |
Accommodations
| Arize Hotel Sukhumvit | A newer and decent mid-range hotel well located near to Phrom Pong Station and Emporium and EmQuartier Malls. |
| Bless Residence | This hotel has larger suite style apartments that are a nice treat if you’re looking for more space in the area, while still at a midrange cost. |
| FuramaXclusive Asoke | A solid mid-range hotel option, well located near Asoke BTS station and Terminal 21 mall. Recently, this is the hotel where I tend to stay the most often when I’m in and out of the city regularly. There membership program also provides great deals and upgrades across their locations throughout Asia. |
| Marvin Suites | A decent apartment style option in Sathorn that’s at a very reasonable price point, I’ve stayed here a few times when I wasn’t able to find a spot at the Sathorn Grace Service Residence. It also offers a free shuttle to the Surasak BTS station, but doesn’t have a swimming pool or gym. |
| Pan Pacific Serviced Suites Bangkok | A long, long time ago, maybe 10+ years ago when I first came to Bangkok and was looking for a nice apartment style hotel to stay in, we picked the Pan Pacific. These are beautiful and spacious rooms in the hip expat-filled neighbourhood of Thonglor. It’s a bit far from the closest BTS station for ease of getting around the city, especially during high traffic times where a taxi is nearly impossible, but it’s very close to all the neighbourhood restaurants and amenities. Now that Grab is prevalent, it’s become a bit easier to stay in certain areas far from a train, but you still have to be conscious of the time of day depending on where you’re going, unless you feel like city in traffic for an hour or more at a time. |
| Sathorn Grace Serviced Residence | If you’re looking for a more apartment style stay but with hotel service, the Sathorn Grace is a good mid-range option. I used to stay here every time I was in the city, starting maybe 8 years ago, as there is a great street food night market close by. While it’s likely starting to fade a bit over the years and is becoming a bit dated, the price point is decent for how spacious the rooms are and the location not too far off from the BTS (about 1 km). They offer a free shuttle service to the station throughout the day, and there’s a rooftop pool and gym. |
| Thong Ta Resort Suvarnabhumi Airport Hotel | If you need a very quick stopover for one night when flying in or out of Suvarnabhumi Airport, Thong Ta is a very reasonable low cost option from around $20/night, if I recall correctly. With frequent free shuttles transfers to and from the airport included in the price, you’ll have all that you need, including nearby local food options. |
| Tower Club at Lebua | You’ll find this high-end hotel option familiar if you’ve ever watched The Hangover. With a great rooftop bar, and beautiful rooms with high up views overlooking the city, this is a great spot.
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| V Residence Serviced Apartment | Another apartment-style hotel, V Residence offers great service, and is very close to the Phrom Pong BTS. If you ever get the chance, the driveway includes a little circular lift to turn around cars that need to exit from it’s dead-end entrance. |
Sites & Activities
| ASIATIQUE The Riverfront | Looking for an outdoor marketplace along the Chao Praya River? You can take a free Asiatique boat from the main Surasak Pier to get here. Find various vendors selling clothing and Thai goods in an outdoor space, as well as many restaurants, and even a ferris wheel! Generally open from 4 pm onwards, into the evening.
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| Benjasiri Park | A cool park with a running trail around it, this spot is a nice green reprieve from the concrete that surrounds it in the Phrom Pong neighbourhood. There’s a central lake and a few sports venues within, including a concrete volleyball court which looks hard on the knees to play on, and a basketball court. Many locals and expats can be found running the circuit around the park in the evening once it starts to cool down, and early in the mornings before heading off to start the day.
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| Chatuchak Weekend Market | Known as the largest outdoor weekend market in all of Asia, Chatuchak is a place that you must see at some point when passing through Bangkok. It’s only open in full on the weekends, from Friday afternoon through Sunday evening, and it’s filled with people and so many vendors of every type imaginable, that you could spend days there and still not see it all. It does get very hot as most stalls are outside and definitely without fans or AC (except in maybe 1 or 2 lucky spots), so it’s best to go in the mornings or else wait until it starts to cool down towards evening (but then gets to the busiest time of the day). Great prices, and options galore, you can reach Chatuchak either via the Mo Chit Metro Stration or the Mo Chit BTS station. It’s best to have a pre-purchased ticket before you leave as it gets extremely busy by the afternoon and you’ll have to wait in a very long line to grab a ticket, or fill up your BTS Rabbit Card if you have a longer stay in the city and want more flexiblity. |
| Grand Palace & Wat Phra Kaew | Definitely a grand palace, with a jade buddha in the temple, this is worth seeing while you’re in Bangkok. I’ve been multiple times now, and it’s gotten much more crowded over the years, so it’s likely best to go early, especially before the main heat of the day. I believe it’s 500 baht for tourists, and likely free for Thai citizens. |
| Imperial World Samrong | Further out, near the Samrong BTS station near Bang Wa, you’ll find the Imperial Plaza, which seems like a tamer version of MBK (the tech mall near National Stadium). There are a couple of decent food courts and a food market inside the main entrance – definitely a more local spot to check out, as far as malls are concerned! I’ve never been yet myself, but my good friend @boholisawesome went recently, so I’ve added it to my list on his recommendation.
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| The Platinum Fashion Mall | A great indoor shopping mall with many clothing, food, and jewelry vendors, along with other Thai goods, Platinum is a great option for wholesale shopping while staying out of the heat. The food court is actually one of my favourites to this day, and I always find some great fun and unique gifts and clothes here. Either walk from the BTS Siam Station, or else take a taxi early morning after rush hour, and try to leave well before 3 pm so that you can manage to get in and out and not be stuck in traffic for ages. |
| Super Rich Money Changer | Looking for the best exchange rates in the city? Don’t head to a bank – find yourself a Super Rich. They always seem to have the best rates compared to all other exchanges, and more and more locations are popping up through Bangkok now, including the basement level of the Airport Link at Suvarnabhumi Airport, the Asoke BTS station, and this Metro Mall on the walkway to the Metro and Terminal 21. Always carry large and crisp US or Canadian bills (or Euros), as the larger the denomination, the better the rate you’ll get. |
| Siam Paragon | A beautiful mall in many ways, you can often find events setup and shows on the outside areas of this most central of malls in the city, right at the Siam BTS station. I used to frequent this spot to hit up their fantastic food court (yes, that’s a thing in Thailand), and try out all their delicious options. Nowadays, I tend to stay a little further out near Phrom Pong, and spend more time at Terminal 21 or EmQuartier, which is only a few years old at this point, and considered the newest and best in the city since it was opened in late 2015. |
| Suvarnabhumi Airport | I still recall when the Don Mueang Airport was the main international airport in Bangkok, which switched over to Suvarnabhumi Airport now about 13+ years ago when it first opened. A much easier location to get to, Don Mueang was switched for mainly domestic flights, and some smaller airlines since.
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| W District | Another gem find via contacts of @boholisawesome, this is an outdoor food market with a variety of dining and drinking options all in one place, near the Phra Khanong BTS station. Keep in mind that the entrance looks like it’s right by the main road, but if you go towards the back, further in, you’ll see the marketplace open up, and it’s much more interesting than how it initially appears from the standard entrance outside. Again, you can find anything from Filipino cuisine, to Mexican, BBQ ribs, and local Thai options, in a casual and fun people-watching more local atmosphere. |
| MBK Center | For all things tech, head over to this mall from National Stadium BTS station, and you’ll find all sorts of things you didn’t know you were looking for. |
| Wat Arun | A beautiful ceramic temple along the river, this is often even more gorgeous when visiting during sunrise, although I’ve never made it there to do so myself just yet.
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There are many people I’ve spoken with after they’ve spent some time in Bangkok who have really disliked it. Of course, everyone is different and that is totally fair, but I wanted to be able to share some of the diverse activities and places I’ve come across if you’d like to give it a shot. For those who haven’t been before, it can be an overwhelming place in so many ways – the noise, the number of people, the terrible traffic, and the smells on the street – yet like so many places around the world, if you’re willing to give it a chance, it may just surprise and touch you in a way that you never expected.
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